|
|
|
|
|
|
Roman Wanderaugh's Travel Tips - Cambodia - Thailand - August 2004
Wednesday August 4, 2004 Bangkok's MRT Subway Train Up & Running - Bangkok Thailand To Siem Reap (Angkor Temples) Cambodia Trip Tips - Unaware Travelers Taken To Out Of The Way Border Crossing BANGKOK'S MRT SUBWAY OPEN The MRT subway is one of the best things to happen to Bangkok. It is currently running. The 18-station route runs from the Hua Lamphong train station to Bang Sue. Key stops for travelers are: Silom (Patpong - nightclubs & shopping) Sukhumvit Road @ Asok, Phetchaburi @ Asok (Access to the Klong/canal boats), Phra Ram 9 (The Fortune Hotel, Lotus Market & an IT Center) and the Thailand Cultural Center. You can catch the Sky Train if you exit at the Sukhumvit station. A special promotion that is in effect until August 12th enables passengers to travel as far as they want on the train for 10 baht. The normal rates range from 14 to a maximum of 36 baht depending of the length of your trip. We covered the entire route in just 32 minutes. Operating hours are from 5AM to 2AM. BANGKOK TO SIEM REAP & PHNOM PENH It's been three years since I last reported on my experiences traveling by road from Bangkok to Phnom Penh. The last time it was somewhat of a nightmare having an axle break on a four-wheel drive pickup truck forcing us to return to Sisophon for repairs. At that time to travel over the road from Poipet to Siem Reap required a four-wheel drive vehicle to negotiate it safely. The following year we were stuck on the road between Sisophon, Cambodia and Siem Reap for SEVEN HOURS in one spot waiting for a double tanker to be pulled out of a huge hole. How huge? Picture the length of a double tanker truck and do the math. This stretch of road is a nightmare. What made that so frustrating was it only took SIX HOURS to pull the tanker out BUT in addition we had to sit for an additional hour as trucks and other vehicles heading towards Bangkok were waived through. We arrived in Siem Reap at 5AM. On one trip during the rain season roads were washed out halting some vehicles. To get through some public transport formed a relay requiring passengers to exit the vehicle and wade through thigh high deep water with their luggage to a waiting vehicle to the other side to take them to the next washout area and repeat the process. That portion of the road between Sisophon and Siem Reap has since been raised to a higher-level cutting down the washed out areas. The surface remains rough from erosion and it is estimated to take six hours or more to reach Siem Reap from the Poipet border crossing. We heard about some inexperienced travelers to Cambodia that requested to Khao San Road travel agents to be being taken to the border. The unaware travelers were taken to Chong Cham another border location not Poipet . Travelers experienced having to travel on bad roads and arriving in Siem Reap anywhere from midnight to 3AM. Some travelers were too tired to visit the Angkor Wat Temples the following day as originally planned. They had to recover from their lengthy and tiring trip and use it as a rest day. With stories like these we sought help.
In our search of an honest dependable travel agent we settled on Sugar's travel agency located on 45 Charkrapong Road (a few meters from Khaosan Road). It's on the ground floor of Sugar's guesthouse. Tel: 66-02-629-3902 - Email: sugaroe@hotmail.com What caught our attention was the quantity of travelers using her services so we figured it must be OK so lets give it a try. The fare to Siem Reap is 560 baht (US$14) On a trip in November 2003 we took a big bus through another travel agency. After departing Khao San Road the bus took two hours traveling around Bangkok picking up passengers thus delaying a normal four-hour trip. Sugar assured us that their would be no delays and that we would be traveling direct to the border at Poipet in a big bus and not a van. We were also assured that once we reached Poipet we would be transferred to a van and NOT A PICKUP TRUCK for the segment from there to Siem Reap. Some travelers that skimped on money and save 50 baht (US$1.25) were taken Siem Reap from Poipet in a pickup truck. They had to deal with road dust, gasoline fumes, extreme heat, sun and possibly rain. This is not a good way to go. Our big bus departed Bangkok at 8:15AM and arrived at the Siam Restaurant in border town of Aranyaprathet, Thailand at 11:45AM. This is a layover for food and to obtain a Visas for those that didn't purchase one boarding the bus. A Cambodian tour guide meets you there and takes passports needing a Visa to Cambodian Immigration for a fee. On this trip the process took one hour and twenty-five minutes. On another trip it took an hour. The Siam restaurant has good food. It is advised to eat and fill your stomach since the quality of food at stops from that point to Siem Reap is questionable. We recommend the steak for 100 baht. The meal came with crisp vegetables, French fries and a salad. One problem is communication. Waitresses aren't proficient at speaking English. We asked for steak and received pork. We opted to eat it rather than send it back. The result was it was delicious having been marinated in a very tasty sauce. We departed for border at 1:10 to exit Thailand and receive a Visa stamp. From there you must walk a bit to the Cambodian Immigration to receive a Visa stamp to enter the country. Some travelers reported they were charged 100 baht at Cambodian immigration for a Visa stamp though they purchased a Visa. The tour guide meets you after you exit Cambodian Immigration. You are then taken to an office in Poipet. From there you are assigned to a van and you are on your way to Siem Reap. This time the layover and van/minibus assignment took 15 minutes. In the past we've waited as long as two hours. The minibus was late in arriving in Poipet from Siem Reap thus the long waiting period. After two hours traveling we stopped for food at a new restaurant that seemed to be built to accommodate tourists. The prices were high by Cambodian standards. The look and smell of the food wasn't appealing. We opted to avoid eating. Our big meal at the Siam restaurant helped sustain us. On a previous trip we became ill from eating at one of these food stops. Having Montezuma's revenge is not the way to go on this segment. There is very little in the way of rest stops and toilet facilities on the road. In critical situations the minibus/van will stop for someone in need of a toilet break. It is advised to take a role of toilet paper with you. All of the restrooms we saw have squat toilets and zero/no toilet paper. If you're not at a restaurant you are on your own in the weeds. As one lady traveler said, "It's like going camping." In some cases the van will stop for a beverage break. Vendors will be selling snacks that are a bit off a westerner's tastes. Some vendors sell spiders. On the road again as Willie Nelson sang, we arrived at a designated guesthouse in Siem Reap at 9PM very tired and hungry. The guesthouse will be anxiously waiting for you. In our numerous trips in the past the guesthouse restaurant was always open upon arrival. This was no exception. Tickets to visit the Angkor Wat Temples range from $20 a day to $40 for a three-day pass. At the guesthouse tour guides and drivers will offer their services. Rates vary. A tour guides knowledge and ability to speak English somewhat proficiently and clear is a decisive factor in your selection of a guide. If you care to travel on to Phnom Penh there are a number of buses that make the connection for $3 up. The price increases if you obtain your ticket through a travel agent, hotel, guesthouse, tour guide or tout . A $3 ticket on the Capitol tours bus was $8 at the guesthouse. The companies have offices in downtown Siem Reap where you can purchase a ticket direct. NOTE: It's remarkable to see Cambodians and Thai's working together to facilitate travelers. Their history doesn't support such a relationship particularly since the Thai riots in Phnom Penh in January of 2003. This relationship is working enabling travelers smother transitions. If you've traveled in the past prior to when the Cambodian tour service agents met travelers at the border you will appreciate the improvement. It helps make your travel easier. In the past you would be at the mercy of cabbies and touts pestering you with their services. When you commit to them you have no guarantees. There are a number of travel service companies on Khaosan Road that offer trips to the border. They use different van/minibus and bus companies. With the amount of luggage we had we preferred to travel in a big bus. We have used Sugar's service twice and things went smoothly. The relationship between the Cambodian and Thai tour services Sugar uses functions well. The system works. If you've traveled in the past prior to when the Cambodian tour service agents met travelers at the border you will appreciate the improvement of service. It assists and makes your travel easier. In the past you would be at the mercy of cabbies and touts pestering you with their services. When you commit to them you have no guarantees. Some touts and cab drivers have been known to collect money to take you to Siem Reap. The traveler later finds they are taken only to Sisophon and then have to pay more to another taxi driver to reach Siem Reap. If you prefer to travel to Poipet be specific and say so. Do not request only to go to the border. Again… be specific. Note: On the return trip travelers seeking to travel to Khao San road on the big bus must meet at the Siam restaurant before 3:30PM when the bus departs. *** Some say that traveling by land is for those that enjoy the Spartan life and have a thirst for adventure. We invite you to share your travel experience with NR readers. Submit to: roamnwanderaugh@yahoo.com Please enter TRIP on the subject line. Submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Your travel experience may help others. Coming: Phnom Penh to Bangkok By Road for $14 © Copying or reuse of this material is prohibited unless authorized in writing by National Radio. Contact: nationalradio@yahoo.com |
|
Roman
Wanderaugh NR 
